Four Itchy Feet

February 11, 2025. El Chaltén, Argentina.

If you come to Argentina to see that very special animal endemic to Patagonia, the road from Los Antiguos to El Chaltén will not disappoint. As we drove the 594 kilometers from Los Antiguos to El Chaltén, we saw hundreds of them grazing near the road. They puzzled us with their appearance as we tried to decide—does it look more like a small camel or a llama? I’m talking about guanacos; they were so intriguing to watch!

Once again, we found ourselves on the infamous Route 40. This time, the potholes were more manageable, but the road often turned from asphalt to gravel with little warning—sometimes for stretches of up to 50 kilometers. These sudden changes in road conditions made for slow progress to our destination.

About a quarter of the way, Cerro San Lorenzo appeared outside our passenger window. A massive, snow-covered mountain set against the arid desert browns, it was an impressive sight. Soon thereafter, we reached the village of Bajo Caracoles—don’t miss this fuel stop! Despite its humble appearance, the fuel pumps work, and this is your last chance to refuel until you reach the very entrance of El Chaltén.

Leaving Bajo Caracoles and entering a mountain valley, we noticed the wind had died down. Above us, three Chilean condors soared gracefully. I was able to take pictures, but they simply don’t do justice to their flight abilities and majestic presence.

The snow-covered mountains of El Chaltén, with their massive glaciers, greeted us long before we arrived. It was a sight so breathtaking that we had to stop the car, get out, and take pictures. Once settled in, we went for a walk around town and then enjoyed a wonderful dinner. We had delicious pizza at Ahonikenk Fonda Patagónica, accompanied by Patagonian lamb empanadas and a local Malbec. And with that, I’ve said enough!