Four Itchy Feet

February 13, 2025. Sendero Laguna de Los Tres, El Chaltén, Argentina.

Hiking Sendero Laguna de Los Tres was by far the toughest test we’ve faced so far. The beauty of this trail is beyond words, and the effort it takes to experience it makes it a perfect addition to our Staying in Shape While Traveling series.

There are several ways to access this trail, with the most popular entry point being the main park entrance in El Chaltén. However, if you want to avoid crowds early in the hike and enjoy better views, we recommend driving or taking a bus (16 km) to the Río Eléctrico park entrance.

As of January 1, 2025, Argentina’s Glaciers National Park began charging an entrance fee for hiking trails. This decision has sparked controversy, as many feel that 45,000 pesos (approximately $45 per person) is quite steep for a day hike. The park also offers a Flexi Pass, allowing entry on seven non-consecutive days for 157,000 pesos (about $145 per person). We opted for this pass since we plan to hike two more days in El Chaltén and several more in El Calafate further south. Notably, these fees apply to foreign visitors, while Argentine citizens pay a significantly reduced rate, and students and retirees from Argentina receive free entry. Many hikers we spoke to feel these high fees may deter future international visitors, who might otherwise spend their money at local businesses—potentially putting the park in direct competition with them as a fee collector.

Now, back to the hike. For the first five miles, the trail is wonderfully accommodating, offering breathtaking views. To the right, you’ll see Cerro Eléctrico, the Needles, and Cerro Fitz Roy. We passed glaciers spilling into large turquoise lakes via cascading waterfalls, and a river gorge providing a soothing soundtrack as we walked. It was a heavenly trek—until we reached the final, grueling climb to Laguna de Los Tres.

The last mile consists of a relentlessly steep ascent, with a rocky incline of 40 degrees or more. Just when you think you’ve reached the top, a false summit awaits, followed by yet another climb. In total, you gain 1,500 feet of elevation in less than a mile. We maintained a steady, slow pace, which allowed us to reach the top without stopping. At the summit, we were rewarded with the most amazing views of Cerro Fitz Roy. Words fail to do it justice—we’ll have to let the pictures speak for themselves. The descent was equally treacherous, but it a close flyby of two Chilean Condors.

On our way back to our Airbnb, we decided to fully embrace the local culture and pick up a hitchhiker. About halfway to town, we spotted a woman with her thumb out and a backpack resting on the ground nearby. Barbara said, “Let’s pick her up!” We pulled over—and to our surprise, it was our friend Chici from yesterday’s hike! We gave her a ride to her hostel, took a photo together, and promised to meet up for a meal in the next few days. This was a challenging hike,13.9 Miles and 3071 feet of elevation change, but an absolute must when visiting El Chaltén. We encourage you to do it!