Four Itchy Feet

February 18, 2025. Rio Gallegos, Argentina.

We have begun our return to Bariloche. We have decided to take the long way back; rather than returning north via Route 40, we will proceed south-southeast and then north along Route 3, following the east coast of Argentina. This route will make the trip longer but will allow us the opportunity to visit several interesting towns along the way.

We had an uneventful four-hour drive to the town of Río Gallegos. Having seen little of interest during this stretch of road, we thought we would share with you the legend of Gauchito Antonio Gil.

As you drive along Argentina’s highways, you will see hundreds of shrines lining the road. Their origin and purpose can be quickly identified. If they are white or other colors, they mark or commemorate a life lost in a nearby accident. However, if they are red—and these are the most common and elaborate—they are shrines dedicated to Gauchito Antonio Gil. You will also notice numerous red flags or streamers placed around or near these shrines.

Gauchito Gil is considered a popular saint, though he is not officially recognized by the Church, he is largely celebrated and followed with large precessions every January 8th. There are many stories about his life, ranging from being a gaucho who stole from the rich to give to the poor, a fighter for social justice, a revolutionary martyr persecuted by the government, to a miracle worker. One well-known legend tells of his execution, during which he warned his executioner that his son was about to die. He claimed that if the executioner prayed to him, his son would be saved—and, according to the story, that is exactly what happened.

A waiter once told us another version of the story: that Gauchito Gil was being pursued along the road and eventually died of thirst in the Patagonian desert. Seeing the vast, arid landscape, this seems like a plausible tale. With this in mind, he explained, travelers embarking on long road trips often stop at one of these roadside shrines and make an offering of water, seeking Gauchito Gil’s protection for their journey. Many vehicles also display a small red streamer tied somewhere on them as a symbol of devotion.

With continuous offerings and additions, these shrines grow quite large, especially at major highway intersections. Be on the lookout for them!  We arrived and are resting at Hotel Comercio in the small town of Rio Gallegos.