Four Itchy Feet

February 20, 2025. Isla Pinguino, Puerto Deseado, Argentina.

There are only a few times in life when you truly feel you are in a special place—Isla Pinguino is one of those places.

Early in the morning, we boarded inflatable boats at the headquarters of Darwin Expeditions in Puerto Deseado. The wind was unusually calm, and the sea offered only a slight swell on the bow as we began our 12-mile journey to the island. Along the way, large albatrosses provided entertainment as they took flight into the wind, running over the water until their expansive wings lifted them above the waves.

We made a few stops at small islands to admire large colonies of sea lions, watching as massive males disputed territory and protected their harems. Then, upon arriving at Isla Pinguino, we were immediately met with the most incredible sight—thousands of male sea lions resting on the beach, comfortably sunning themselves in peace. Among them, very prominently, were two large elephant seals and their pup. We sat in awe, watching as they occasionally woke and readjusted themselves among the rocks.

Our walk up the hill led us to the Magellanic penguin colonies, scattered all the way up to the lighthouse. Upon reaching the lighthouse—the highest point on the island—we descended toward the sea on the other side for what would become the highlight of our excursion: the Rockhopper Penguin colony.

The Rockhopper Penguin, made famous by Disney and Pixar, captivated us with its lively behavior. Sitting for about an hour and observing them gave us insight into why they were chosen to represent the penguin community in the movies—they are simply adorable. We visited during their catastrophic molting period, which happens just before their migration journey to Brazil. We watched them interact, chase off wayward Magellanic penguins intruding on their territory, swim to test their new waterproof feathers, and, at times, just stand still.

As we left the island, we felt incredible joy and gratitude for the opportunity to experience such an untouched corner of the world where nature thrives. On our boat ride back, we were overwhelmed with excitement as a pod of Commerson’s dolphins—about twenty of them—joined us for most of the trip, riding our bow, surfacing nearby for breaths, and occasionally leaping alongside us.

Isla Pinguino was an unforgettable experience. Darwin Expeditions did an excellent job of educating us, allowing us to patiently experience the island, and, most importantly, ensuring that we remained mindful and respectful—understanding that this place belonged not to us but to the animals that call it home.