Four Itchy Feet

September 1, 2025. Nagasaki, Japan.

Today we rented a car in Nagasaki in search of a beach where we could swim. Our first stop was Yuin-no-Hama Marine Park, a popular local beach known for its clean shoreline, family-friendly facilities, and seasonal swimming nets. Unfortunately, it was closed for repairs, and the protective nets had been pulled from the water. Scattered along the sand were several large Cannonball Jellyfish, the very reason for those nets. These jellyfish appear seasonally in Japanese waters, and local beaches often install nets to keep swimmers safe from painful stings.

Our next stop was Uki Beach, another well-known swimming spot in the area. The scenery was beautiful, but the water looked less than inviting, and we decided not to go in. Running out of time, we redirected our search westward toward the shores of the East China Sea. Nagasaki’s western coastline is dotted with small fishing villages and hidden coves, many of them untouched by crowds, making it a region where locals often escape for peace and quiet. That’s when we stumbled upon a true hidden gem: Kujira-no-Hama—literally “Whale Beach.”

The drive there was narrow and winding, a bit treacherous at times, but the reward was worth it. We arrived to find soft, untouched sand and crystal-clear water—the perfect setting to finally change into our bathing suits. Just as we were heading into the sea, a local woman approached us and kindly pointed out that our car was blocking the entrance to the beach. We quickly moved it and then hurried back to enjoy the water.

The woman introduced herself as Shika. Her English was very good, and soon we were chatting with her while floating in the waves. She told us about her time living in California, her family, and her everyday life back in Nagasaki. With a smile, she insisted that we borrow her mask and snorkel to swim out to the reef. Taking her up on the offer, we discovered colorful fish and corals just offshore, making the swim one of the highlights of the day.

Shika explained that Whale Beach is almost always deserted and that tourists rarely visit. Many of Nagasaki’s smaller beaches are known only to locals and fishermen, making them feel like hidden sanctuaries. She had come that day to reflect after a recent breakup, seeking peace in the quiet beauty of the coast. She told us that seeing us together, happy after 35 years of marriage, gave her a sense of hope and comfort.

We had to say goodbye all too soon, pressed for time by the cruise schedule, but we both knew that under different circumstances we could have spent the entire day on Whale Beach. We feel truly blessed not only to have discovered this hidden paradise but also to have shared it with Shika—a reminder of the unexpected connections and kindness that often make travel so memorable.