Four Itchy Feet

August 13, 2025. Kusatsu, Japan. Day 6

Today we traveled from Matsumoto to Kusatsu Onsen. We had a wonderful drive through rice fields, valleys, and lush mountain landscapes. The drive was easy and we were in Kusatsu by lunchtime.

Kusatsu Onsen is a world-renowned onsen (hot spring) town in Gunma Prefecture, and a popular tourist destination for both domestic and international travelers. Kusatsu Onsen is consistently ranked as one of the top hot spring resorts in Japan. The town boasts the largest natural flow of hot spring water in Japan, with over 32,000 liters per minute gushing from its various sources. The water is famous for its high acidity (around pH 2.1) and high temperature. The locals claim its therapeutic properties can cure “all illnesses but lovesickness.”

We expected it to be a quiet small town, but as we drove in, we could see there were thousands of tourists. At the center of town is the most iconic landmark in Kusatsu, the Yubatake, or “hot water field.” This is the main source of the hot spring water and features a series of wooden channels that naturally cool the water before it’s distributed to the various baths and inns. The Yubatake is particularly beautiful at night when it’s illuminated.

Because the spring water is too hot for bathing, a traditional method called yumomi was developed to cool it down without diluting its mineral content. This involves stirring the water with large wooden paddles while singing a folk song. We had the chance to participate in this one-of-a-kind ritual.

While we waited to check in to our Kiyoshigekan Ryokan Onsen accommodations, we decided to walk around town. We visited the Konseiji Temple and a nearby pagoda. We then walked around Sainokawara Park, where you can walk up to the hot springs and take foot baths in natural water pools.

Because the Yubatake is not to be missed at night, we returned to the town center for dinner. We took a foot bath before dinner and had a wonderful meal at Uotami. The sushi was delicious! Tomorrow, we head down the mountains to Yokohama. Stay tuned for that train adventure!derful meal at Uotami. The sushi was delicious! Tomorrow, we head down the mountains to Yokohama. Stay tuned for that train adventure!

Yubatake, wooden channels naturally cooling the water.

Konseiji Temple and Pagoda

Yumoni Ceremony to cool down the water.

Sainokawara Park.

Yubatake at night.

Street Foot Baths at the center of town.

Ryokan accomodations.